The Growing Demand for Inclusive Haircare 

The beauty industry is on a journey when it comes to embracing diversity, and the haircare and skincare categories are playing catch up with the colour cosmetics sector which has led the charge in diversity terms with a growing number of brands properly addressing shade ranges to meet the needs and desires of all skin tones. As consumers increasingly seek products that cater to their unique needs, brands are under pressure to deliver solutions that celebrate all hair textures, types and styles. 

For beauty brands, inclusivity isn’t just about representation—it’s about creating meaningful connections with customers. Research shows that consumers are more loyal to brands that reflect their individuality, making inclusivity not just an ethical priority but a strategic one.  

Gen Z places a strong emphasis on inclusivity in terms of representation and product diversity in beauty and grooming. According to a survey conducted by Attest who polled GenZers, two fifths (39.5%) of respondents value a wide range of shades for different skin tones, highlighting the importance of racial and ethnic representation in product offerings.”  

As a leading private label skincare and haircare manufacturer, THG LABS empowers brands to meet this demand by developing innovative, science-backed haircare solutions tailored to the needs of diverse customers. In this article, our Account Head of R&D, Dr. Catherine Leray, and our Head of Product Innovation, Kristal Goodman, explore the factors to consider in formulating for Inclusivity in Haircare.  

The Hair Diversity Landscape: Why It Matters 

• Consumer Diversity: 
  Globally, a significant portion of the population has wavy, curly, coily, and kinky hair types. Despite this, many traditional haircare products are designed with straight, fine hair in mind, leaving a large range of consumers feeling overlooked and underserved. This has created a massive gap in the market, ripe for innovation. 
• Cultural Representation: 
  About more than mere aesthetics, for many, hair is a powerful personal expression of culture, identity and heritage. Inclusive haircare products go beyond addressing functional needs; they can often empower individuals to take pride in their natural hair, fostering a deeper emotional connection with the brand. 
• Market Opportunity: 
  The global textured haircare market is estimated to grow exponentially in the coming years, driven by consumer demand for tailored solutions. Over 65% of the world’s consumer population, or about 1 billion consumers, has textured hair. Specifically, women with textured hair spend 78% more on products than women with straight hair, on average. Additionally, the natural hair movement combined with the desire for specialized care products positions the textured hair care market for significant development1. Global Google searches for textured hair continue to rise, with 131% increase year on year (SPATE, 2025). Brands that invest in this space not only address a social need but also position themselves for significant financial returns. 

Understanding Hair Types: The Foundation of Inclusive Formulation 

An inclusive approach to haircare begins with a deep understanding of the wide range of hair types, textures, and needs. 

Hair is typically categorised into four primary types—straight, wavy, curly, and coily/ kinky—with further subcategories (A, B, C) to capture variations in density, curl pattern, and thickness. Each type presents unique characteristics and opportunities for formulation.  

Hair texture and density naturally evolve over a person’s lifetime. Hair texture isn’t necessarily consistent across all areas of the scalp, particularly in individuals with naturally curly or coily hair. Variation is influenced by factors such as follicle shape and genetic diversity. Environmental factors and hair care practices may contribute to perceived differences in texture over time. This variation can influence how hair behaves overall, highlighting the importance of choosing versatile products and techniques that support hair health and styling needs. 

Type 1: Straight Hair  
Straight hair generally allows scalp oils to spread more easily along the hair shaft due to its smooth structure. However, sebum production varies between individuals, meaning oiliness is influenced by more than just hair type.  

• 1A: Fine, flat hair that can have shine and smoothness but may lack volume; benefits from volumising and oil-balancing solutions. 
• 1B: Medium texture with more body while remaining smooth and prone to oily roots; benefits from lightweight conditioning and, when needed, mild smoothing products to manage flyaways without weighing hair down. 
• 1C: Coarser, thicker hair making it stronger but less manageable and more prone to frizz; needs smoothing products and lightweight hydration without excess weight. 

Type 2: Wavy Hair 
Wavy hair has an 'S'-shaped pattern due to the asymmetrical growth of hair follicles. The bends in the hair shaft create a structure that is less compact than straight hair but not as coiled as curly hair. This shape affects how light reflects off the hair, how sebum travels from the scalp, often leading to drier ends, though root oiliness depends on individual sebum production. 

• 2A: Loose, fine waves prone to flattening and easily weighed down that benefit from lightweight styling products to enhance natural movement and enhance wave definition without reducing volume. 
• 2B: More defined waves that can be easily weigh down with excess product so will benefit from lightweight wave-enhancing products. 
• 2C: coarse, thick waves with a more pronounced ‘s’ shape with more natural strength requiring products to maintain definition. 

Type 3: Curly Hair 
Curly hair forms loops or spirals that require focused moisture retention and curl enhancement. It can range from loose to tight curls, each with its own unique needs. 

• 3A: Loose, well-defined curls prone to relaxation that benefit from curl-definition products to maintain their shape. 
• 3B: Tighter curls that thrive with balanced moisture and definition-enhancing solutions. 
• 3C: Tight corkscrew curls that need deep hydration and structural support. 

Type 4: Kinky/ Coily Hair 
Kinky and coily hair features the tightest curl patterns, with low sebum distribution along the shaft. This hair type benefits from intensive hydration and protective care 

• 4A: Coils with a well-defined springy structure prone to shrinkage that require hydration to maintain elasticity and bring elongation. 
• 4B: Thirsty Z-shaped coils that benefit from rich moisture and protective formulations. 
• 4C: Dense, delicate coils that need intense nourishment and strengthening. 

Additional Considerations for Formulating 

• Scalp Health: Consumers with this hair type 4 often experience scalp concerns like dryness, itchiness and buildup due to reduced sebum distribution. Inclusive formulations should include exfoliants like salicylic acid for buildup removal and humectants for hydration, while soothing agents help maintain scalp comfort. 
• Technical Challenges: 
  Creating inclusive products also involves navigating technical hurdles, such as ensuring formulations are stable across a wide range of textures and climates, as well as achieving the desired sensory experience. 

How THG LABS Supports Inclusive Formulation 

Our extensive Research and Development department has a dedicated haircare team, expert in leveraging cutting-edge science to develop formulations that meet the needs of every hair type. From curl-enhancing creams to deeply hydrating conditioners, we create solutions backed by rigorous testing and consumer insights. 

We adopt a bespoke approach to formulation for brands which means we can create versatile product lines that cater to specific hair textures. Whether you’re developing co-washes, styling gels, or scalp treatments, our Haircare Development team ensures each product is tailored to deliver optimal results. 

A further consideration is that diverse markets come with diverse regulatory landscapes. THG LABS in-house Regulatory Compliance work very close with our Product and R&D teams to ensure your formulations comply with regional requirements, making it easier for your brand to expand globally.  

Finally, our state-of-the-art beauty manufacturing processes are designed to scale inclusive product lines, enabling brands to meet growing demand without compromising on quality. 

Benefits of Inclusivity for Beauty Brands 

Being perceived as an inclusive brand not only sets a company apart but also attracts customers who might not feel recognised or appreciated by other brands. This approach resonates deeply with consumers, especially when they notice a genuine effort to cater to their diverse needs. Inclusive haircare products, for example, build trust and foster brand loyalty, particularly among underrepresented groups who feel seen and valued. This sentiment often turns consumers into brand advocates who are eager to share their positive experiences, effectively serving as ambassadors for the brand. 

Moreover, inclusive haircare lines appeal to a broader demographic, which opens new revenue streams and increases market share. For global brands, embracing inclusivity enhances cultural resonance and boosts customer engagement, as diverse consumer bases feel genuinely considered and catered to in the brand's offerings. This strategic embrace of diversity not only promotes a positive brand image but also drives substantial business growth. 

Future Trends in Inclusive Haircare  

• Hypersonalisation / Further inclusivity: We are not defined simply by hair type, how we choose to express our hair and how we treat it means we need targeted treatments to suit our lifestyle. Life stages, hormonal changes (including menopause and pregnancy) and our environment (humidity, hard water etc) all effect our unique hair needs. We expect to see more customisation in this category, products addressing the individual’s needs in terms of colour protection, porosity and repair treatments. 
• Resource saving: Products that extend time between salon treatments or at home routines will save time, money and resources (water, energy) will appeal to consumers. Multi-functional and cost-effective formulations are essential to meet concerns over cost of living.  
• Headcare: A more intentional, therapeutic approach to haircare routines will give rise to ritualistic practises to improve emotional wellbeing and hair health. In salon relaxing ‘scalp facials’ are gaining in popularity, with 400% year-on-year increase in Google searches of ‘hair and scalp spas’. At home treatments involve extended pre-shower rituals, hair oiling and scalp massages.   

With a commitment to innovation, expertise, and collaboration, THG LABS is the perfect partner for brands looking to develop inclusive haircare solutions. From ideation to full-scale production, our full-service solutions across a range of services provide the tools and support to bring your vision to life. 

Interested in leading the charge for inclusive haircare? Contact THG LABS today and let’s start shaping the future of beauty together. 

References 

1. https://www.askattest.com/blog/research/gen-z-beauty-trends 
2. Syensqo 'future-of-textured-hair-care-products' 

Dr. Catherine Leray 
Account Head of R&D, THG LABS 

With over 20 years in the beauty industry, Dr Catherine Leray , Account Head of Research & Development at THG LABS, is passionate about the science behind truly effective cosmetic products. Specialised in haircare, she enjoys turning research into practical solutions that deliver tangible results, developing products with proven benefits without overlooking the importance of sensorial experience. Her work is driven by a deep understanding of consumer needs and the scientific principles that make effective haircare possible.  

Kristal Goodman
Head of Product Innovation, THG LABS  

With over 25 years’ experience in the beauty industry and UK cosmetics manufacturing, Kristal Goodman has cultivated a unique blend of scientific expertise, creative vision, and strategic thinking to spearhead what are recognised as some of the beauty industry’s most much-loved, must-have products.  

In her role as the Head of Product Innovation, Kristal’s influence is best demonstrated in THG LABS dedication to pushing boundaries. She is the driving force behind the integration of upcycled ingredients, advanced biotechnology, and other impactful emergent global beauty trends that ensure THG LABS remains at the cutting-edge of beauty innovation. Her knowledge of actives and their benefits is encyclopaedic which fuels her talent for translating ingredient ideas and science into concepts that give each product a formula and a story consumers fall in love with.  

A member of THG LABS Eco Leadership Team and a devoted advocate for formulating sustainably, Kristal adopts a holistic approach to product development, believing that truly innovative beauty products are those that address the multifaceted needs of today’s consumers while better respecting the world around us.