With so many consumers experiencing the symptoms of skin sensitivity there is a clear need to develop gentle targeted solutions. Working as the manufacturing and product development partner for world-leading beauty brands, over the years we have had significant experience in understanding the range of key considerations that need to be factored in when formulating sensitive skin products. In this article, Dr. Catherine Leray, our Account Head of R&D at THG LABS, talks us through the key elements that need to be factored in to formulate with success for this growing market of consumers.

Understanding Sensitive Skin

Sensitive skin is a broad term, encompassing a variety of symptoms and triggers.

Sensitive skin can be loosely defined by the occurrence of sensations such as stinging, burning, pain and tingling, sometimes accompanied by redness which occurs in response to certain stimuli that don’t cause the same reaction in normal skin types.

Consumers with sensitive skin often report irritation, dryness, and discomfort. There are often a variety of factors at play. It may be due to an impaired skin barrier, inflammatory responses, or heightened reactivity to external stressors such as lifestyle and lack of sleep, stress, hormones, allergens, environmental factors, or certain topical ingredients.

Our first step in formulating for sensitive skin begins with understanding these triggers and the diversity of sensitive skin profiles. This requires collaboration with dermatologists, consumer research insights, and a commitment to using only the most effective, ultra-gentle ingredients.

Barrier Support: Strengthening the Skin’s First Line of Defence

Barrier support is a central element of formulating for sensitive skin, the goal being to support the restoration of the skin barrier's integrity while preventing further damage.

The skin barrier, also known as the stratum corneum, plays a critical role in maintaining skin health, helping to protect against environmental aggressors such as pollutants, allergens, and harmful microorganisms, while also retaining essential moisture. A healthy skin barrier increases skin’s resilience, improving skin comfort, appearance and tolerance. When the barrier is impaired—a common occurrence in sensitive skin – it leads to increased trans epidermal water loss (TEWL), leaving the skin vulnerable to irritation, dryness, and inflammation.

 Moisture Retention and Hydration

A functional skin barrier is essential for maintaining moisture balance. When the barrier is intact, it effectively retains hydration, minimising the dry, flaky, and tight sensations often associated with sensitive skin. By formulating products with humectants alongside occlusive agents to reinforce the skin’s lipid matrix, we create a twofold effect:

1. Drawing moisture into the skin.
2. Locking it in to limit water loss.

This dual-action approach helps sensitive skin stay hydrated and resilient throughout the day.

Protecting Against External Aggressors

Sensitive skin is not only prone to internal issues like compromised barrier function but is also particularly vulnerable to external aggressors. Modern consumers are increasingly aware of the effects of urban pollution on skin health, including dullness, sensitivity, and premature aging. Factors such as UV radiation, pollution, temperature fluctuations, and exposure to irritants can exacerbate sensitivity, leading to redness, discomfort, and long-term damage.

Antioxidants are vital in protecting sensitive skin from free radical damage caused by environmental stressors like UV exposure and pollution. Free radicals are unstable molecules that can damage skin cells, accelerating aging and weakening the skin's defences. Sensitive skin, being more vulnerable to these effects, benefits greatly from antioxidants which neutralise free radicals and supports the skin’s repair processes. Calming agents address redness and discomfort triggered by external aggressors. Together, antioxidants and soothing ingredients help defend sensitive skin leaving it feeling more comfortable, resilient and healthier-looking.

Balancing pH Levels

Skin's natural pH is slightly acidic (around 5.5), and maintaining this balance is critical for sensitive skin as this acidity supports the skin’s barrier function and microbiome. Any prolonged or repetitive disruptions can weakens the skin’s defences leading to increased sensitivity.

Ingredient Selection

There is a fine line between innovation and over-formulation. For sensitive skin, less is often more. Each additional ingredient increases the risk of irritation or adverse reactions. To ensure simplicity without sacrificing performance, formulations for sensitive skin start with the strict selection of highly effective, well tolerated ingredients. We aim for minimalistic formulas that are free from known irritants such as:

• Fragrances
• Essential oils
• Harsh surfactants
• Alcohols

Instead, we focus on soothing and barrier-supporting ingredients that are rigorously tested for tolerability to ensure they deliver optimal results without compromising sensitive skin.

Prebiotics and Probiotics

The microbiome and its role in skincare is a fast-evolving field of study. An invisible line of defence against skin stressors, emerging research shows that a healthy skin microbiome plays a crucial role in barrier function and skin resilience. In certain cases, sensitive skin is linked to imbalances in the microbiome, which can exacerbate barrier impairment.

To support the microbiome and promote a healthy skin environment, formulations often include prebiotics and postbiotics. Prebiotics serve as a food source for beneficial microorganisms, helping to encourage a balanced microbial community. Postbiotics, which are bioactive compounds derived from probiotic fermentation provide direct benefits such as soothing and reinforcing the barrier.

Testing for Efficacy

Using techniques such as Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurement, we confirm that our products significantly improve the barrier’s ability to retain moisture. Additionally, long-term studies assess the cumulative benefits of consistent use.

Why Collaboration Matters

Developing products for sensitive skin is not a one-size-fits-all approach. Collaboration with our clients, dermatologists, and regulatory bodies ensures every product is safe, compliant, and effective. This holistic approach considers not only the science behind the formulation but also the consumer experience, from product feel to results to packaging design.

The Future of Sensitive Skin Formulations

As consumer demand for sensitive skin products continues to grow, innovation in this space is accelerating. From microbiome-friendly formulations to cutting-edge delivery systems that optimise ingredient efficacy, the future of sensitive skin care is bright.

Formulating solutions for sensitive skin is a challenge that we embrace with passion and expertise. If you’re looking to develop products that truly make a difference and tackle your consumer’s concerns, our door is always open. Let’s innovate together.