What Are Dermocosmetics?

Dermocosmetics are generally understood to be skincare products developed with a focus on skin health and functionality. Depending on the claims being made, some will still be classified as cosmetics in the UK and the EU,  often containing active ingredients that are intended to address specific skin concerns such as dryness, sensitivity, pigmentation, and blemishes. However, it’s important to note that, under UK and EU regulations, dermocosmetics cannot claim to treat or prevent medical conditions such as eczema or acne unless classified as a medicinal product.

These products often bridge the gap between everyday skincare and professional dermatological care, offering more targeted solutions that are formulated to be both gentle and effective.

Why Is Interest in the Term “Dermocosmetics” Growing?

Several factors are contributing to the increasing popularity of “dermocosmetics” as a term in the UK market, for targeting skincare concerns:

1. Consumer Focus on Skin Health: More consumers are now seeking products that do more than just beautify—they want skincare solutions that promote long-term skin health. With “Dermocosmetics” appealing to this demand by combining advanced formulations with ingredients that are beneficial for skin function.
2. Aging Population: As more people look for solutions to address visible signs of aging, such as fine lines, pigmentation, and loss of elasticity, dermocosmetics are becoming a popular choice due to their focus on skin maintenance and enhancement.
3. Sensitive and Reactive Skin: With the rise of skin sensitivities and concerns about harsh ingredients, many people are turning to dermocosmetics for their gentle yet effective properties, which cater to those with reactive or problematic skin.
4. Trust in Science-Backed Products: The increasing focus on dermatologically tested products has strengthened consumer trust in dermocosmetics. Brands that are transparent about their use of scientifically proven ingredients are gaining more recognition.

Expertise Required for Developing Dermocosmetics

Considering the demands of consumers for dermocosmetics, creating products requires a blend of advanced scientific knowledge and practical experience in skincare formulation. Key areas of expertise include:

1. Cosmetic Science: Understanding the interaction between different active ingredients and the skin is crucial. Formulators must ensure that these ingredients are compatible with a range of skin types while remaining stable and effective over time.
2. Dermatological Insight: Collaborating with dermatologists and using dermatologist-driven insights helps to develop products that target specific concerns like skin sensitivity or hydration, without crossing into medicinal claims.
3. Regulatory Compliance: The development of “dermocosmetics” must strictly adhere to UK and EU cosmetic regulations. Products must avoid medicinal claims unless classified as medicines, and any claims made must be supported by robust scientific evidence.

Claims and Regulatory Considerations in the UK

As with any cosmetic product launching on the market, brands must be cautious when making claims about dermocosmetic products. Under UK Cosmetics Regulation, which mirrors the EU’s Cosmetic Products Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, like all cosmetics, products being marketed as dermocosmetics must comply with the following:

1. Avoid Medicinal Claims: Dermocosmetic products should focus on claims related to improving the appearance or health of the skin, such as hydration or feeling soothed. Claims like “treating acne” or “curing eczema” would classify the product as a medicine, which requires separate licensing by the Medicines and Healthcare products Regulatory Agency (MHRA).
2. Substantiating Claims: All claims made about the effectiveness of dermocosmetics must be supported by credible scientific evidence, such as dermatological studies or clinical trials. The ASA oversees advertising and requires that claims like “clinically proven” or “dermatologist recommended” are substantiated.
3. Ingredient Transparency: It is increasingly important to be transparent about ingredient sourcing and efficacy. While some products may contain innovative or active ingredients, brands must ensure that the language used is legally compliant, truthful, substantiated, honest and fair.
4. Focus on Safety and Efficacy: Consumer trust is key in the UK market, and brands should prioritise safety by adhering to stringent testing protocols, including safety assessments.

Dermocosmetics – A Strategic Growth Opportunity for Brands

For brands not already in the dermocosmetics space, now is the ideal time to consider expanding into this rapidly growing market. Rising consumer demand for science-backed skincare products presents significant opportunities for both established beauty brands and newcomers. Here’s why:

1. Capitalising on Consumer Trust in Science-Driven Products

Consumers today are highly educated about their skincare choices and increasingly prefer products backed by scientific research. According to a study by Mintel, 45% of UK consumers believe that skincare products that are clinically tested are more trustworthy. This shift towards science-driven skincare has led to a boom in the dermocosmetics market, as these products often come with dermatologist recommendations or clinical backing, making them more appealing to discerning customers.

Brands that position their products within the dermocosmetics space can gain a reputation for transparency and efficacy, which are increasingly important in building consumer loyalty. In fact, Euromonitor International reports that consumers are more likely to remain loyal to brands that offer scientifically-proven benefits, creating a longer customer lifecycle.

There are now multiple brands who have successfully built entire product lines around this science-first, dermatologist-endorsed approach, gaining a strong following among consumers who value both beauty and function.

2. Expansion into Premium Skincare Categories

Dermocosmetics are often considered a premium segment within the broader skincare market due to their focus on efficacy, safety, and active ingredients. Statista data shows that premium skincare products accounted for 42% of total skincare sales globally in 2021, and dermocosmetics play a significant role in this category.

The use of advanced ingredients such as peptides, retinoids, and antioxidants, often backed by clinical studies, justifies higher price points for dermocosmetics. Additionally, the endorsement of dermatologists lends credibility, allowing brands to command a premium for these products. By offering dermocosmetics, brands can elevate their portfolio and attract higher-margin consumers looking for results-oriented skincare solutions.

3. Meeting a Broad Range of Skin Concerns

Dermocosmetics are uniquely positioned to target specific skin concerns such as sensitivity, pigmentation, blemishes and premature aging. Unlike traditional cosmetics, which primarily focus on enhancing appearance, dermocosmetics combine aesthetics with skin health benefits. According to the International Journal of Cosmetic Science, the efficacy of dermocosmetics lies in their active ingredients, which are scientifically tested to improve skin health, often addressing underlying issues such as inflammation, dehydration, or sensitivity.

This specificity allows brands to offer tailored, solution-driven products that stand out in the crowded skincare market. As the rise in skin sensitivities continues to grow due to pollution and environmental stressors, consumers are actively seeking products that can address multiple concerns while being gentle on the skin.

4. Building Brand Differentiation

In a saturated beauty market, differentiation is critical to standing out. Dermocosmetics offer brands a way to differentiate by focusing on health-driven, science-backed skincare rather than purely aesthetic enhancements. A brand’s commitment to dermatology  can serve as a strong selling point, especially for consumers increasingly focused on self-care and wellness.

Additionally, dermocosmetics can provide a clearer, more transparent messaging strategy compared to general cosmetics. With the rise of "skintellectual" consumers—those who research and scrutinise ingredients—brands can position themselves as expert-led, offering formulations that solve specific problems while enhancing skin health.

5. Addressing Regulatory Requirements with Confidence

Dermocosmetics are subject to the same stringent regulations that traditional beauty products face. In the UK, as in the EU, they must comply with Cosmetic Products Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, which governs product safety, efficacy claims, and labelling.

Brands entering this space must ensure that all product claims are substantiated by credible scientific evidence. Claims such as "clinically tested" or "dermatologically proven" require proper documentation and must be in line with guidelines provided by the Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) and MHRA for any health-related claims. Partnering with an expert team like THG LABS ensures brands can confidently navigate these regulatory landscapes, ensuring products meet all safety and compliance standards while strengthening brand reputation and consumer trust.

The Path Forward for Brands

For brands not yet involved in dermocosmetics, the potential rewards of entering this space are significant. By embracing this trend and partnering with Product Development professionals like THG LABS, brands can tap into a fast-growing market, enhance their product offerings, and strengthen their positioning as trusted leaders in skincare.

Conclusion

Dermocosmetics are a growing sector in the UK beauty industry, offering a balance between cosmetic appeal and skin health. As consumer demand for science-backed skincare continues to rise, expertise in cosmetic science, and regulatory compliance will be essential for developing high-performance products. Brands must navigate regulatory landscapes carefully, ensuring that their claims are both accurate and compliant with UK regulations and guidelines.

At THG LABS, we have extensive manufacturing experience in developing and producing dermocosmetics that meet these rigorous standards. Our team of in-house regulatory experts and highly-qualified cosmetic scientists share a brilliant blend of advanced credentials and interdisciplinary knowledge that means the products we create deliver on their promise while complying with UK and global regulations.

Contact us today to explore how we can support your brand in the dermocosmetics space.